The lower right corner is just a drawing of the tile pattern. The other three are potential versions of the same pattern. To be continued!
Sunday, November 17, 2013
Translating Tiles into Knitting Patterns
When I was in Portugal at the beginning of October, I took a lot of pictures of the tiles that cover the houses there. Now I have finally started my project to translate the tile patterns into fair isle knitting patterns. I give myself about three years to design the patterns and knit a sweater. Might be a cool book idea. Here's a picture showing the first iterations of the first pattern.
The lower right corner is just a drawing of the tile pattern. The other three are potential versions of the same pattern. To be continued!
The lower right corner is just a drawing of the tile pattern. The other three are potential versions of the same pattern. To be continued!
Friday, November 4, 2011
New Pattern (sort of)
I'm just publishing a new pattern to Ravelry (trying to figure out how to do it again. It is not easy!). This is a pattern I designed last year for Heather's baby. Unfortunately, by the time all the test knitting was done, it was March, so I decided to save it for publishing this winter, more toward the beginning of knitting season.
Also, unfortunately, the care package I sent to Heather, including all the prototype and test knit booties, was lost in the mail.
The great thing about these booties is that they are fast to knit and there is no sewing. NO SEWING. They're knit in the round and the shaping is done with some simple short rows. Sizes go from 0-24 months. You can find the pattern in my Ravelry store if I ever figure out how to upload it.
buy now
Also, unfortunately, the care package I sent to Heather, including all the prototype and test knit booties, was lost in the mail.
The great thing about these booties is that they are fast to knit and there is no sewing. NO SEWING. They're knit in the round and the shaping is done with some simple short rows. Sizes go from 0-24 months. You can find the pattern in my Ravelry store if I ever figure out how to upload it.
buy now
Sunday, August 21, 2011
Finally Finished Last Year's Christmas Presents
At long last! The felted sit-upons that I planned for Iris's Christmas present last year are finally finished.
I actually had sort of finished these a couple months ago, but after knitting and felting the two rectangles, I had the idea to make them even more comfy by adding just a little bit of stuffing. Of course, it then took me ages to get the canvas for the backing, and finally yesterday I did the sewing and finished them up.
I hope that these will improve the lives of all people who sit on Iris's kitchen bench.
I actually had sort of finished these a couple months ago, but after knitting and felting the two rectangles, I had the idea to make them even more comfy by adding just a little bit of stuffing. Of course, it then took me ages to get the canvas for the backing, and finally yesterday I did the sewing and finished them up.
I hope that these will improve the lives of all people who sit on Iris's kitchen bench.
Sunday, April 10, 2011
On Needles
I just packed up most of my yarn and knitting supplies for my upcoming move. While doing so, I found some unfinished--and in some cases almost forgotten--projects. I decided to keep a few of them out to work on over the next month or so. No new projects until these are done! Or I get sick of them!
cable cozy
I knit one of these before. Takes forever. Super fucking boring.
***
ugly slippers
Saartje-Inspired Bigger Slippers, by me
free pattern on Ravelry
You can tell by looking at the garish color scheme of the finished slipper why I haven't finished this project. Sometimes using up the odds and ends isn't such a great idea after all. It'll only take me a couple hours. Guest slippers... I guess.
***
making it up as I go along
no pattern
Ravelry link
According to Ravely, I started this project in July, 2009. Not quite two years ago. It was supposed to be my first sweater design. The pattern notes are in a shambles. They're all crossed out and scribbled, on multiple pieces of paper, post-it notes, napkins, and sketchbook pages. Still, I think this project has potential. I picked it up again a couple weeks ago and I've got the back mostly done, as well as the start of both sleeves. It might end up being a one-off, though. I'm not sure I will have the energy to try to pull the pattern notes into a real pattern, let alone try knitting the damn thing again to check the pattern.
This is knit on US #2 (2.75mm) needles with sock-weight yarn. I love small needles and fine yarn, but it takes a long time to finish.
***
the first sweater I ever started to knit
Short Sleeve Pullover by Mari Lynn Patrick
Published in Vogue Knitting, Spring/Summer 2006
Ravelry link
April 2006. Five years ago. That's when I started knitting this complicated sweater from a Vogue Knitting pattern. I've worked on it a bit this year. Some day I'll finish it. I'm not sure I will want to wear it when it's done, but I will finish it...
cable cozy
I knit one of these before. Takes forever. Super fucking boring.
***
ugly slippers
Saartje-Inspired Bigger Slippers, by me
free pattern on Ravelry
You can tell by looking at the garish color scheme of the finished slipper why I haven't finished this project. Sometimes using up the odds and ends isn't such a great idea after all. It'll only take me a couple hours. Guest slippers... I guess.
***
making it up as I go along
no pattern
Ravelry link
According to Ravely, I started this project in July, 2009. Not quite two years ago. It was supposed to be my first sweater design. The pattern notes are in a shambles. They're all crossed out and scribbled, on multiple pieces of paper, post-it notes, napkins, and sketchbook pages. Still, I think this project has potential. I picked it up again a couple weeks ago and I've got the back mostly done, as well as the start of both sleeves. It might end up being a one-off, though. I'm not sure I will have the energy to try to pull the pattern notes into a real pattern, let alone try knitting the damn thing again to check the pattern.
This is knit on US #2 (2.75mm) needles with sock-weight yarn. I love small needles and fine yarn, but it takes a long time to finish.
***
the first sweater I ever started to knit
Short Sleeve Pullover by Mari Lynn Patrick
Published in Vogue Knitting, Spring/Summer 2006
Ravelry link
April 2006. Five years ago. That's when I started knitting this complicated sweater from a Vogue Knitting pattern. I've worked on it a bit this year. Some day I'll finish it. I'm not sure I will want to wear it when it's done, but I will finish it...
Monday, July 19, 2010
Sloucher
I had my first real experience with selling patterns on Ravelry last November, when I put out a hat pattern called Sloucher. So far, I've sold 184 copies of the pattern. I still sell one or two a week. It's not much, but it's more than I would have thought.
Here are some of the things I learned:
Get a pretty girl and a great camera for your pattern photo
I asked Phan Phan, who owns the Vietnamese restaurant on the ground floor of our building, to model the hat for my pattern photo. She was a great model, and I am pretty sure that her pretty face helped sell a lot of patterns. We also borrowed a really good digital slr and took the photos outside in natural, but not direct, sunlight.
Ravelry advertising works
In December, I did not buy ads on Ravelry. I sold 20 copies of the pattern.
In January, I bought ads on Ravelry forums. I sold 45 copies of the pattern.
Nobody checks gauge
My hat came out too small for almost everyone. I test knit this sucker about a dozen times. I knew the gauge was right. But it doesn't really matter what the gauge in the pattern says. 90 per cent of knitters will not go to the trouble of knitting a gauge swatch for a quick hat pattern. I know I wouldn't!
Some people knit it with worsted weight instead of aran. My aran wool was on the bulky side, so even some people who used an aran-weight wool ended up with small hats. Finally, I changed the pattern to call for a bulky aran-weight yarn.
One solution to this problem is to specify exactly which yarn to use in the pattern and to use popular yarns. Another advantage to that approach is that you can promote your pattern to fans of particularly popular yarns via the Ravelry forums. I might try this with a future pattern.
Ravelers are helpful
I got to have interactions with people who were having trouble of one kind or another with this pattern, via personal message. I edited the pattern three or four times to make changes inspired by these conversations. The interaction I got with my fellow knitters has definitely made me a better pattern-writer. Thanks, guys.
Here are some of the things I learned:
Get a pretty girl and a great camera for your pattern photo
I asked Phan Phan, who owns the Vietnamese restaurant on the ground floor of our building, to model the hat for my pattern photo. She was a great model, and I am pretty sure that her pretty face helped sell a lot of patterns. We also borrowed a really good digital slr and took the photos outside in natural, but not direct, sunlight.
Ravelry advertising works
In December, I did not buy ads on Ravelry. I sold 20 copies of the pattern.
In January, I bought ads on Ravelry forums. I sold 45 copies of the pattern.
Nobody checks gauge
My hat came out too small for almost everyone. I test knit this sucker about a dozen times. I knew the gauge was right. But it doesn't really matter what the gauge in the pattern says. 90 per cent of knitters will not go to the trouble of knitting a gauge swatch for a quick hat pattern. I know I wouldn't!
Some people knit it with worsted weight instead of aran. My aran wool was on the bulky side, so even some people who used an aran-weight wool ended up with small hats. Finally, I changed the pattern to call for a bulky aran-weight yarn.
One solution to this problem is to specify exactly which yarn to use in the pattern and to use popular yarns. Another advantage to that approach is that you can promote your pattern to fans of particularly popular yarns via the Ravelry forums. I might try this with a future pattern.
Ravelers are helpful
I got to have interactions with people who were having trouble of one kind or another with this pattern, via personal message. I edited the pattern three or four times to make changes inspired by these conversations. The interaction I got with my fellow knitters has definitely made me a better pattern-writer. Thanks, guys.
Wednesday, September 16, 2009
I Just Set up a Ravelry Store
I just spent the past half an hour setting up a store on Ravelry, to experiment with selling patterns there. Most of my patterns are free, but I thought it would be interesting to see how it would go putting my latest hat design out there for two clams.
The new design is called the Walker. It's a felted, peaked cap. The peak doesn't require any cardboard or plastic inside, and the shaping is pretty simple. I felted mine by tossing it in the towel load and washing it hot, then wearing it until it was dry.
Here are a couple pictures. There are more on Ravelry.
The store setting-up process on Ravelry was not as hard as I thought it was going to be. They have some weird user interface things on there, especially that the save button for adding a pattern to your store is hidden toward the top left of the page instead of down at the bottom, under the pdf upload section, as you'd expect it to be. Generally, though, it's not too hairy.
Can't wait to see if anyone will shell out for the pattern now!
The new design is called the Walker. It's a felted, peaked cap. The peak doesn't require any cardboard or plastic inside, and the shaping is pretty simple. I felted mine by tossing it in the towel load and washing it hot, then wearing it until it was dry.
Here are a couple pictures. There are more on Ravelry.
The store setting-up process on Ravelry was not as hard as I thought it was going to be. They have some weird user interface things on there, especially that the save button for adding a pattern to your store is hidden toward the top left of the page instead of down at the bottom, under the pdf upload section, as you'd expect it to be. Generally, though, it's not too hairy.
Can't wait to see if anyone will shell out for the pattern now!
Monday, September 14, 2009
Peaked Cap Version Two: City Slicker
I knit up this new version of the hat I made this weekend. It's using the same formula, but the brim is a lot wider and the crown is pointy with a nubbin on top instead of so roundy. I also used seed stitch for the brim and edging instead of a rib. Coming next will be a top-down version with maybe some more complicated shaping in the bill.
I don't know the difference between a bill, a brim, and a peak.
Here's the pdf of this particular hat pattern, if you want to knit it up yourself.
I don't know the difference between a bill, a brim, and a peak.
Here's the pdf of this particular hat pattern, if you want to knit it up yourself.
Saturday, September 12, 2009
Hat With a Brim
Using Shazzas Brimmed Hat Pattern as a rough guide, I came up with this very basic recipe for making a hat with a brim. These are instructions for making a hat similar to this one, using whatever yarn and needles you want. I'll write up the pattern for making exactly the hat in this picture soon.
Brim Hat Formula as PDF. This PDF has the picture of the hat, plus information about figuring out gauge and how many stitches to cast on.
How to Make a Brimmed Hat
Pick whatever yarn and needles you want to use.
Make a swatch.
Get your gauge.
Figure out how many stitches you need to cast on for the size of head you have. You should measure your head, subtract 2 centimeters, and then round down to a number divisible by 2 or 4 depending on the rib you want.
You might use a needle a couple sizes smaller to cast on however many stitches you need, especially if you are using fatter needles and yarn.
Cast on.
Place a stitch marker at the begining of the round.
Work in desired rib for a few rounds. 4-6 rounds are nice, but you can do as many or as few as you like.
Change to the needles you did your gauge in if needed.
Knit in stockinette until the hat is big enough to start reducing. This depends on your taste. I like the hat to cover my ears so I knit until the hat is about 12 cm tall.
Reduce.
The method you use to reduce will determine the shape of the hat. Split the stitches into equal sections. The sections have to be even, however many of them there are. I like to reduce in 4 or 5 sections. You can reduce one stitch on either side of the stitch marker, or just on one side. You can reduce every row, or you can reduce every other row, every third row, or whatever. The top of the hat can be round, baggy, flattish, or pointy depending on how you do the reducing.
Break off the yarn and close the top of the hat with the tail.
Brim
Using your mad math skills, figure out how many stitches to cast on to make 8 cm. You can also make the front of the brim less roundy and more square by casting on more stitches here.
Knit two rows in the same rib you used on the edge of the hat.
Cast on 2-4 stitches at the beginning of each row until the brim is as wide as you want it to be. 10-14 rows should do the trick. The fewer stitches the more pointy the arc of the brim will be. The more you cast on, the roundier it will be.
Work 1 row without shaping, cast off.
Brim underside
Cast on enough for 7 cm, or 1 cm less than you made the brim.
Knit 2 rows in either stockinette or seed stitch, as you prefer.
Continue with whatever stitch you chose, casting on the same number of stitches at beginning of every row as you did for the brim, but do this two rows fewer than you did for the top of the brim. For example, if you increased 10 times for the brim, only increase 8 times for the underside.
Work 1 row without shaping, cast off.
Finishing
Sew in ends.
Sew the two sides of the brim together and turn it so the seam is on the inside.
Sew the brim to the hat. I did this by placing the brim flat against the outside of the hat and sewing the three thicknesses together. Careful at the corners, to make them look nice.
Brim Hat Formula as PDF. This PDF has the picture of the hat, plus information about figuring out gauge and how many stitches to cast on.
How to Make a Brimmed Hat
Pick whatever yarn and needles you want to use.
Make a swatch.
Get your gauge.
Figure out how many stitches you need to cast on for the size of head you have. You should measure your head, subtract 2 centimeters, and then round down to a number divisible by 2 or 4 depending on the rib you want.
You might use a needle a couple sizes smaller to cast on however many stitches you need, especially if you are using fatter needles and yarn.
Cast on.
Place a stitch marker at the begining of the round.
Work in desired rib for a few rounds. 4-6 rounds are nice, but you can do as many or as few as you like.
Change to the needles you did your gauge in if needed.
Knit in stockinette until the hat is big enough to start reducing. This depends on your taste. I like the hat to cover my ears so I knit until the hat is about 12 cm tall.
Reduce.
The method you use to reduce will determine the shape of the hat. Split the stitches into equal sections. The sections have to be even, however many of them there are. I like to reduce in 4 or 5 sections. You can reduce one stitch on either side of the stitch marker, or just on one side. You can reduce every row, or you can reduce every other row, every third row, or whatever. The top of the hat can be round, baggy, flattish, or pointy depending on how you do the reducing.
Break off the yarn and close the top of the hat with the tail.
Brim
Using your mad math skills, figure out how many stitches to cast on to make 8 cm. You can also make the front of the brim less roundy and more square by casting on more stitches here.
Knit two rows in the same rib you used on the edge of the hat.
Cast on 2-4 stitches at the beginning of each row until the brim is as wide as you want it to be. 10-14 rows should do the trick. The fewer stitches the more pointy the arc of the brim will be. The more you cast on, the roundier it will be.
Work 1 row without shaping, cast off.
Brim underside
Cast on enough for 7 cm, or 1 cm less than you made the brim.
Knit 2 rows in either stockinette or seed stitch, as you prefer.
Continue with whatever stitch you chose, casting on the same number of stitches at beginning of every row as you did for the brim, but do this two rows fewer than you did for the top of the brim. For example, if you increased 10 times for the brim, only increase 8 times for the underside.
Work 1 row without shaping, cast off.
Finishing
Sew in ends.
Sew the two sides of the brim together and turn it so the seam is on the inside.
Sew the brim to the hat. I did this by placing the brim flat against the outside of the hat and sewing the three thicknesses together. Careful at the corners, to make them look nice.
Friday, July 17, 2009
Norwegian Purl Technique
I found this via the Knitty blog. I've seen people do this before but have never figured out how it was done before. I tried it out last night. Not too hard, but will take some practice before it becomes automatic. This is going to make ribs and seed stitches a lot faster.
Sunday, June 28, 2009
Saartje Style for the Grown Ups
I finally finished working out the pattern for the adult-sized slippers. Here's the pattern pdf. They are a little more clog-like and less roundy than the smaller size, but still pretty cute.
You can definitely fudge the sizes larger or smaller by changing needle size or yarn weight. I did a try with bulkier yarn following the pattern exactly and got about a size 39 (US 8). They're very quick to knit. Don't be afraid to mess around with the gauge for sizes.
Queue them up on Ravelry.
You can definitely fudge the sizes larger or smaller by changing needle size or yarn weight. I did a try with bulkier yarn following the pattern exactly and got about a size 39 (US 8). They're very quick to knit. Don't be afraid to mess around with the gauge for sizes.
Queue them up on Ravelry.
Friday, June 12, 2009
Saartje-Inspired Big-Kid Slippers
I have been knitting booties by designer Saartje de Bruijn for a few people I know who are expecting babies. I think these are the cutest booties I've ever seen. Vigo loved these little booties so much he would come up to them and give them a kiss. He really wanted a pair of his own. I first tried just knitting the booties with fat Aran-weight yarn and fat US9 needles, but the shape was just not right. Too floppy, too big, ill-proportioned.
I tossed that first experiment into the washer on hot and they came out very cute as a toddler-size felted slipper.
For the next experiment I tried some short rows in the toe, and the slippers came out just perfect for Vigo's little feet. I've written up the pattern, which you can get here: Saartje-Inspired Big-Kid Slippers pattern as a pdf
Here are pictures of the Big-Kid Slippers and the other booties I've been knitting.
I tossed that first experiment into the washer on hot and they came out very cute as a toddler-size felted slipper.
For the next experiment I tried some short rows in the toe, and the slippers came out just perfect for Vigo's little feet. I've written up the pattern, which you can get here: Saartje-Inspired Big-Kid Slippers pattern as a pdf
Here are pictures of the Big-Kid Slippers and the other booties I've been knitting.
Saturday, May 16, 2009
On Needles
* Old Shale Baby Blanket: Ravelry Project Link, Free Pattern
* German Stockings: Ravelry Project Link, Pattern Link
* Cabled Fingerless Gloves: Own design, somewhat stalled
* Rag Scarf Number Two: Still getting the fiber combination right
* Raglan Cardigan for Vigo: Totally stalled
* German Stockings: Ravelry Project Link, Pattern Link
* Cabled Fingerless Gloves: Own design, somewhat stalled
* Rag Scarf Number Two: Still getting the fiber combination right
* Raglan Cardigan for Vigo: Totally stalled
Lace
I've been thinking about knitting the famous Hemlock Ring Blanket for a long time, but I want to try some other lace patterns first, so I can learn how to read the lace charts and figure a few things out ahead of time. The blanket is basically a lace doily pattern that has been adapted to be knit on much larger needles with much fatter yarn.
My first experiment is a baby blanket that I made for Justine's daughter Sienna. The pattern comes from Knit Wiki and is called Beadspread (Counterpane with Leaves). You're supposed to knit an ungodly number of triangles and then SEW them all together (the horror). I used fat needles and yarn and made four triangles to create one large square, big enough for a baby blanket.
I learned a lot of things about lace knitting from this project. Number one, don't try to drink alcohol and knit lace patterns. Also, after every pattern row, count them stitches and make sure you didn't miss a yarn over somewhere. That can also be done while you're knitting the plain row. It's easy to pick up a yarn over. If you make a mistake, you have to frog a little. Tough luck. Don't try to finnagle.
My first experiment is a baby blanket that I made for Justine's daughter Sienna. The pattern comes from Knit Wiki and is called Beadspread (Counterpane with Leaves). You're supposed to knit an ungodly number of triangles and then SEW them all together (the horror). I used fat needles and yarn and made four triangles to create one large square, big enough for a baby blanket.
I learned a lot of things about lace knitting from this project. Number one, don't try to drink alcohol and knit lace patterns. Also, after every pattern row, count them stitches and make sure you didn't miss a yarn over somewhere. That can also be done while you're knitting the plain row. It's easy to pick up a yarn over. If you make a mistake, you have to frog a little. Tough luck. Don't try to finnagle.
Sunday, March 15, 2009
Bike Stuff
A long time ago, I started knitting a sweater for my bicycle. Today, because I had the bike in the house doing some maintenance, I decided to put the sweater on the bike. I don't care much for the look of it, and I think I am going to do something else, but I will leave it on for a while to see if it grows on me.
Out of curiosity I went on Ravelry to see what other people might be doing for their bikes and of course I found a lot of projects. All images link back to the profile pages of their creators on Ravelry and I don't think they will work if you aren't logged in.
More Bike Cozies
Seat Cozies
Bike Racks
Locks
Attempted Helmet Improvements
Baskets and Such
Other Cute Stuff
Out of curiosity I went on Ravelry to see what other people might be doing for their bikes and of course I found a lot of projects. All images link back to the profile pages of their creators on Ravelry and I don't think they will work if you aren't logged in.
More Bike Cozies
Seat Cozies
Bike Racks
Locks
Attempted Helmet Improvements
Baskets and Such
Other Cute Stuff
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